Inspectors critical of TN food safety law

10:36 PM, Sep 9, 2012   |    comments
Jeff Hill, an environmental health field specialist with the Tennessee Department of Health, inspects a kitchen at a Brentwood restaurant. Health officials say our food safety laws fail to address many issues. / Shelley Mays / The Tennessean
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By Tom Wilemon, The Tennessean 

State health officials and members of the restaurant industry plan to ask the legislature to update Tennessee's 1976 food safety law.

"Our rules are so old they don't even address sushi," said Hugh Atkins, who oversees restaurant inspections for the Tennessee Department of Health.

The Tennessee Food Safety Task Force first considered tweaking compliance rules but finally decided the law itself needed a complete overhaul.

The statute, more than three decades old, does not prohibit restaurant employees from fingering your food and lists temperature requirements for already-cooked dishes that can cause mashed potatoes to get crusty and meats to get leathery.

Task force members say the law wastes resources, falls short of federally recommended standards and can penalize restaurants that operate in older buildings.

The temperature requirements for already-cooked foods have no safety benefit, Atkins said. Another requirement mandates that inspectors check a peanut and candy shop as often as a full-fledged restaurant, where the risk of a food-borne illness is much higher.

"With shrinking resources, we need to be able to focus what resources we have where we think it's most appropriate," Atkins said.

In July, the state lost six of its 113 health department inspectors to budget restraints -- the first cutbacks since the start of the Great Recession, he said. The department plans to streamline the inspection process using small, hand-held computers with special programming that allow inspectors to file reports from the field. The inspectors, who also do checks on tattoo parlors and swimming pools, have a lot of ground to cover.

"Tattoo establishments get four inspections a year," Atkins said. "Pools get inspections every month they are in operation."

All food establishments have to be inspected once during the first half of a calendar year and once during the second half -- even The Peanut Shop in Nashville's historic Arcade. Atkins would prefer a once-a-year check at a candy shop so inspectors would have more time to double up on a problem restaurant.

Vague language, headaches

The language on food handling is vague.

"One thing that our statute and our rules don't give us as strong authority as we'd like is bare hand contact with ready-to-eat food," Atkins said. "Our current rules say it should be minimized."

The federal recommendations from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration say there should be no bare hand contact. But Tennessee inspectors cannot cite a restaurant if they observe employees fingering food. The FDA recommendations are only guidelines -- guidelines that other states have written into law.

Chain operations with established protocols and training based on those FDA recommendations have to change them to do business in Tennessee. That's one of the reasons Greg Adkins, the chief executive officer of the Tennessee Hospitality Association, supports updating the law.

But the law also causes unwarranted headaches for mom-and-pop cafes. Adkins said it is not uncommon for a business owner to be told to relocate a hand sink, when the real health issue is whether employees are actually washing their hands.

"There's a lot of emphasis on things that really don't affect the food," Adkins said. "If you have a tile out of place in your kitchen or if a ceiling tile is out of place, you are going to get docked for it. That has nothing to do with how the food is kept."